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There’s a place I’ve been very close to since I was little; this place is Umbria and today, I have transmitted the same passion that binds me to this land also to Francis. I remember that as a child, the silence, the smell of woods, the taste of meat and mushrooms were the first things that came to mind when I thought of Umbria and years later, it seems that this is still the case.
We were recently in Umbria and chose some cities in particular that we would have liked to see again: Gubbio, Assisi and Norcia. To them we have added a small relaxing bracket on the border with Tuscany, in Tuoro sul Trasimeno.
When we stay in Umbria we generally stop in Perugia, it is no coincidence that we are “very faithful” of the chocolate festival. Our favorite hotel is outside Perugia, in Montone and is surrounded by greenery: the Hotel Fortebraccio. This is a special place for us, which marked the beginning of our history and the first of our trips together.
The hotel has beautiful small and cozy rooms, with balconies overlooking the greenery. The wellness center is also really very nice although not huge, for this you have to book and in this way you can enjoy the center without the presence of other guests. The restaurant is highly recommended, we love to eat on the terrace and stock up on truffle dishes.
Assisi remains our magical place. Whether you believe it or not, there is something really strong that crosses the perched village that, by the way, is enchanting: stone streets, steep climbs, crowded houses that look like those of a nativity scene. Sometimes you get the impression that the weather in this country stopped at 1200, everything seems to have been swallowed up in the Middle Ages.
No matter whether you are believers or not, visit the Basilica of St. Francis a jewel of art, whose frescoes still seem to have the fresh smell of the concoctions used by Giotto and Cimabue to paint the saint’s life.
If you want to rediscover the silence of civilization and the song of nature do not miss the visit to the monastery of San Damiano where the crucifix spoke to St. Francis. A church completely bare, silent, essential but so rich in history and spirituality.
Another lovely place is Gubbio. Perhaps someone remembers the episodes of Don Matteo long filmed in this village in stone, truly characteristic. Prepare comfortable shoes and breath because there is to walk despite not being a big place; the roads are practically all uphill and the climbs are getting steeper and steeper. The view in Gubbio as in Assisi and as in Perugia is phenomenal. Hectares of fields and woods stretch to the horizon line, impossible not to photograph every glimpse and every panorama, at any time.
Norcia is the paradise of meat lovers and as throughout Umbria, here too the wild boar is the main dish. The very small Norcia has always given me the impression of the set of a fantasy movie; a fortress city still surrounded by ancient city walls. Inside you greedy you will find the famous “norcinerie” where you can buy local delicacies and maybe bring some to relatives or greedy friends like you.
In fact, one of the things we love about all of Umbria is food and regional cuisine is in our opinion one of the best in Italy. Stock up mainly on porcini mushrooms and truffles that you will find served in any dish. Our favorite dish is truffle lasagna and for those who have never tasted it do not be intimidated by the smell because the taste is a feast for taste buds. Also noteworthy are umbrian wines, full-bodied reds suitable to accompany good meat cuisine and still delicious are the pumpkin dishes.
Our trip to Umbria ends at the borders of the region, in Tuoro sul Trasimeno, a place that we did not know but that surprised us. We stayed at the ancient farmhouse of Montegualandro in a very intimate and typical place. Yes, because the farmhouses and farms here are very chic places to enjoy a relaxing stay. The farmhouse in which we stayed is very intimate, surrounded by the greenery and silence of the countryside. We do not have a real room but a sort of dew with very high ceilings, kitchen, living room, a remarkably large bathroom and a bedroom with a four-poster bed.
The staff are very personable and extremely friendly. Although the restaurant does not have a huge choice, it offers excellent dishes, very rustic, tasty and fresh and the wine remarkably good. The heated pool is the most beautiful and relaxing place in the small spa.
The trip to Umbria, is a magical experience, whichever city you choose to visit, at any time of the year. Choosing Umbria in summer means spending a cool summer but above all it allows you to relax, unplug from the chaos of the city, remove your eyes from the concrete to see tuff and stones, breathe the smell of moss and moist earth. You will choose a place where history, religion and art merge and are lost in green, the predominant color of magical Umbria.
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